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Vasilis Kessaris
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Post subject: Oil on the sword? Posted: Sat May 27, 2006 10:39 am |
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:57 pm Posts: 41 Location: Sweden - Västerås
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I wonder if there is any other good oil that I can use instead of Choji oil since it's very expensive to buy here in Sweden. Maybe it's good to use the kind of oil-spray there is for mechanical parts that have an antirust formula aswell as it's oil the sword.
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gregory breese
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Post subject: Posted: Sat May 27, 2006 11:55 am |
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Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 6:43 pm Posts: 57 Location: Dover, Delaware, US
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Most people consider Choji Oil to be mineral oil, with some clove oil added for the aroma. In the US we can get mineral oil at the Drug Store (Pharmacy). Usually they have a version of mineral oil that is too thick (heavy), but can special order a lighter (thinner) version of mineral oil upon request. Even their lighter version has been described as a bit thicker than Choji.
Keep in mind you really only need a little bit, so even if Choji seems expensive, it really isn't since it will last a long, long time. When I oil my blade, I put several drops on a cloth and let it soak in. I use that to wipe the blade a few times, then wipe off any excess. Those few drops on the cloth seem to last for 10 or more oilings.
Other oils that have been recommended are high quality, light weight oils for fine machinaery, such as sewing machine oil or gun oil. An oil called "3 in 1" sold in the US has also been recommended. Gun oils recommended include Breakfree CLP and Birchwood Casey Sheath Rust Preventative.
I would stay away from sprays, you will likely put too much on. And additives in various oils have been raised as an issue to consider related to long term use and potentially affecting the sword. Consensus seem to be that the safest course is to use Choji or light weight mineral oil.
_________________ Gregory Breese
Dover, DE
US
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Vasilis Kessaris
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Post subject: Posted: Sat May 27, 2006 1:06 pm |
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Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:57 pm Posts: 41 Location: Sweden - Västerås
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Thanks for the replay. I put some sewing machine oil today on the sword since i didn't have the choji near. I will see if I can find any other oil here thats good. I know that the oil lasts a long time but when I don't have any left then I don't want to buy a new set here in sweden for aprox. $50. So all the other options you mentioned seems alot cheaper=)
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John Jacobs
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Post subject: Posted: Sat May 27, 2006 2:24 pm |
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2005 11:52 pm Posts: 190
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I've never tried it on a priceless item like a sword, but WD-40 is a nice cheap alternative I've used on knives before.
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Tom_Urso
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Post subject: Posted: Sat May 27, 2006 3:42 pm |
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Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2005 12:43 am Posts: 406 Location: Clemson, South Carolina, USA
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Choji oil is commonly used because it gives a nice aroma. If that isn't important, any commonly found machine lubricant will suffice. I have used WD-40 for many years with no adverse issues. I spray the lubricant on a clean rag such as an old t-shirt and then apply to the sword. As with any oil, do not slop it on the blade and put it in the scabbard wet. Please wipe of any excess oil since they can pool in the scabbard and weaken the wood.
Thank you
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gregory breese
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Post subject: Posted: Sun May 28, 2006 3:42 pm |
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Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 6:43 pm Posts: 57 Location: Dover, Delaware, US
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I will add that WD-40 has been discussed a fair amount with regard to oiling swords. Consensus seems to be that it is not recommended choice for swords, though some use it with success. A search on various web forums can yield a lot of information.
_________________ Gregory Breese
Dover, DE
US
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Charles Bourque
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Post subject: Posted: Sun May 28, 2006 4:37 pm |
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Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 8:07 pm Posts: 1088 Location: Canada
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I use gun oil when I run out of choji. Just make sure to whipe it thin.
_________________ Charlie
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adam fitzgerald
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Post subject: Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 11:39 am |
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Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 1:21 pm Posts: 73 Location: Charleston SC
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What does the oil do for the sword? What type of maint. does the sword need?
I hope to be getting my unsharpened sword soon and would love to to know how to best take care of it.
Adam
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Brad Bonnyman
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Post subject: Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 1:43 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2005 3:20 am Posts: 540 Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Almost all funtional swords are made of carbon steel, the exact composition varies but the major component is iron and iron rusts. Any water that comes into contact with the blade will cause rust. Regularly oiling the blade helps prevent the formation of rust.
A good quality sword needs very little maintenance. Inspect the edge after cutting practise to ensure you don't have any nicks developing. Clean any residue off the blade with a clean cloth after every use and oil it. You don't need a lot of oil just a little. This will give the sword some corrosion protection, much the same as getting your car rust-checked *egads* what a horrible comparison....a thousand lashes! ouch.....ouch.....ouch....
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Tom_Urso
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Post subject: Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 3:50 pm |
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Joined: Sun Feb 13, 2005 12:43 am Posts: 406 Location: Clemson, South Carolina, USA
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I would like to add that even with your kagum, oiling after each use is necessary. Unless it is stainless steel, kagums are also made from high carbon steel and are prone to the same corrosive elements. Eventhough you are not cutting with the sword, the moisture from then air and oil from your fingers can damage the blade. I suggest after every use to apply a small amount of oil to the blade. This will not only help prevent corrosion but also help facilitate a smoother draw and sheath.
Thank you
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gregory breese
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Post subject: Posted: Tue May 30, 2006 5:54 pm |
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Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 6:43 pm Posts: 57 Location: Dover, Delaware, US
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And it might be worth adding that if the sword is used for cutting, then you will likely find you need more than just wiping with a dry cloth and oiling. I have found Noxon Metal Polish (which is non-abrasive) and Windex to be very effective at removing stains and cleaning the blade. Sometimes you need to let the Noxon sit on the stain for a few minutes.
_________________ Gregory Breese
Dover, DE
US
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Brad Bonnyman
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Post subject: Posted: Wed May 31, 2006 12:02 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2005 3:20 am Posts: 540 Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Light stains, like those left on the blade after apple cutting can also be removed with Brasso. I'm not recommending this as the everyday cleaner mind you but in a pinch it's been known to do an fairly good job on small stains. Be careful not to use a large amount and let the brasso dry first before whiping it off.
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Steven Allan
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Post subject: Choji Oil Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:55 am |
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 5:07 am Posts: 7 Location: Peterborough, UK
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Not sure about this one. I found this web site and use it quite a lot:
http://everything2.com/index.pl?node_id=1464298
“Choji oil is an oil mixture of 99% mineral oil, 1% clove oil. If this is not available, pure mineral oil or some non-corrosive gun oils are acceptable, such as Remington. Do not use any form of vegetable oil, as they are chemically active and will 'gunk up' over time and damage the scabbard. Choji oil has been used for hundreds of years, and remains the best option.”
I use Choji Oil to maintain my swords especially having had a rush scare last year – I love the smell and texture of the oil – rather like giving my swords a massage.
I’d also like to think a moment about the scabbard the sword stays in – I’m not sure if any other kind of oil would damage this?
_________________ If you practice an error you perfect a mistake.
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Ron Mottern
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:01 am |
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Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 12:16 am Posts: 324 Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
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Although I usually use Hoppe's gun oil because it is readily available at Wal-Mart, my experience is that choji oil is best. It seems to adhere better to the blade and thus prevent spot drying when in the gumchip. (Spot drying will occur as you use your sword and it creates its own path within the gumchip.) However, I believe it depends on how often you use (and clean) your sword. In a pinch, organic oils will do just fine. They will only "gunk up" if they are left setting for extended periods (and I'm sure that people on this site don't leave their swords setting unused for extended periods). WD-40 has been used for years on all things metal.
As with most anything else, I encourage you to look at the context and environment in which the info is to be applied. Some "swordsmen" rarely take their swords from their gumchips and never work up a sweat when using them. HDGD practice usually works up quite a bit of sweat and I can't get through a practice session without getting some on my blade. This requires cleaning (with metal polish) immediately after training. Your particular use and circumstance will really determine what is the best choice (and you have received a wealth of info to help you choose what may be best).
_________________ Ron Mottern
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Eric Blood
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:19 am |
Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 3:38 pm Posts: 9 Location: Springville, Utah, USA
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